The Turks live in fear. When traveling through Turkey, it’s better to wear a European hat than a fez. Your hat will serve as a better protector than an escort. And that’s what I always did.
A Military Display at Dawn
It was just before sunrise, and in the distance, I could hear the sound of drums and sad Turkish music. Troops were marching quickly into Adrianople, with the heavy thud of many soldiers’ feet. This was a special day—the anniversary of Abdul Hamid’s rise to power as the Sultan The Great Fire of September 1905.
The Military Gathering
The soldiers gathered in front of the Konak, the official home of the Vali, the governor of the region. In the grey light of early morning, there was something strange about the scene: the dark blue uniforms, the swarthy faces, and the red fezzes. The officers wore bright medals on their chests. Flags with the red crescent fluttered, and sometimes the green flag of Islam was displayed Tours Bulgaria Beglik Tash.
The Vali stood on a balcony, and for a moment, everything was silent. Then the military bands began to play a slow, solemn tune, like the start of an important anthem. When the music stopped, the soldiers shouted, “Patishahim tchok Yacha!” which means “Long live the Sultan!” The sound was powerful and moving. After the shout, the band switched to a livelier tune.
Decorations for the Celebration
The main streets were decorated for the occasion, as ordered. Countless flags fluttered in the wind. Red and green crescent flags waved proudly. Triumphal arches were put up. The whole event had a festive look, but in truth, it felt somewhat artificial—just like many celebrations are.
